“The prevalent one-size-fits-all approach to baking - using generic wheat flours (white or whole wheat) and mostly white cane sugar - has severely restricted the range of flavors and textures in most commercially available baked goods.” p19 Chad Robertson
In the introduction to his third book of Tartine recipes, Chad Robertson talks about why bakers in the States have been working with only a few grains for so long. His discussion of how so few (high-yield) grains came to be dominant in the monocrop farming culture of twentieth-century America is really interesting and worth a read (see reference details below). Basically, with more grains becoming available in California, Chad Robertson decided to focus in on the fermentation and preparation of the grain to create great flavour. The fame of Tartine speaks to that work (as do the queues out its door and down the street).
Because what he says about flavour is of interest to home cooks, professional bakers and all people with mouths (and because we all know Tartine have flavour sorted), I just want to quote a little more:
“Bakers use all sorts of flavorings for breads, such as nuts, seeds, dried fruit, herbs, and cheese. But I have always felt that relying on the addition of nongrain ingredients to add flavor to bread missed the heart of the matter. My focus would rely on the grains to bring the primary flavor - herbs, seeds, and other ingredients would complement this foundation.” p14 Chad Robertson
“In some cases the grains are used whole - toasted, soaked and/or cooked, or sprouted before being mixed into the dough - to add distinct flavors and texture. When we use flours ground from the grains, we use freshly milled (if possible), either milled the same day or a few days prior [because] the flavor from freshly milled flour is different from flour that is a few weeks or months old, much the same way that the flavor of freshly ground black pepper differs from preground.” p19
Looking at the photos alone in this book make me want to sit down and eat bread (lots of it), but what he writes about using grains is worth thinking about if you’re buying or making real bread (BTW feel free to message Dusty on Instagram or Facebook if you’re a home baker and have hit a snag in your baking!)
It also makes me excited all over again that we’re working with Marty from @farmriverview and the grains he’s producing in Canterbury. I just can’t wait to see where the flavour will go as The Dusty Apron starts working more closely with the grain itself.
Ref: Chad Robertson (c2013) Tartine Book No.3 Modern Ancient Classic Whole. Chronicle Books: San Fransisco